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Miracle Thai Agriculture

Danai Huntrakul E-mail : [email protected]

Sour and Spicy Siamese Mud Carp Soup

In this fortnight issue, I"ll take you to a fresh market in Khanu Woralaksaburi District in Kamphaeng Phet Province. The name "Khanu et al" came later, to replace Saen Taw Minor District traceable to "Muang Saen Taw", an ancient community of the same era as others in Kamphaeng Phet. Today, "Saen Taw" remains only the name of Sub-district.

Khanu fresh market"s official name is "Talad Thai Pitak". It is small, but on every Friday there is farmers market where folks bring their fresh produce.

The other Friday, I got to see both markets; fresh and farmers. At six it was kind of late, but the vendors were still fresh. Most shoppers were housewives, not many chefs for their daily fares. Being a small town there are not many food shops.

However, I was not too late to have Lu, the Northern spicy minced pork, at the market entrance. It was well cooked, with crispy fried rice noodle aside. Too bad they already mixed in pickled garlic; not the way made by cousins at uncle"s house in Salok Bat on Songkran Day over twenty years ago.

Kamphaeng Pet has been a province of freshwater fishes frequently visited for the fresh, luscious fish and the local cooking. Alas, the river Ping, which flows nourishing the main district down to Saen Taw, is today clogged with sand islets. Big fishes are rare but smaller ones. The sizeable are farm fish in tubs of red Nile Tilapia and striped catfish; and in buckets, serpenthead fish and catfish - folk"s staples. Without the latter two, Thai community would surely perish.

Dredging the Ping River is a colossal task. Should we just leave it to the government?

Seeing no big fish, I found dried one at a farmer market vendor: Siamese mud carp, crispy in skewer, 10 to a skewer, at 40 Baht.

On a rainy day, nothing beats Sour & Spicy Siamese mud carp soup with steaming rice.

Sour & Spicy Soup Tom Khlong is a staple dish of the Central Plain; with recipe strict by great-great-grandma, for any simple but savoury meal fit for all seasons, to use only shallot, dried chili and tamarind juice; no shrimp paste, sugar, garlic; fingerroot, galangal, lemon grass, kaffir leave or fruit are forbidden; lest they divert it from the authentic flavour. In the olden days, they even used fresh tamarind pod, and young tamarind leaf.

Anyhow, Bilimbi just bloomed from rain is good enough, and I got a handful.

Set water to boil. While waiting, dissolve tamarind pulp, peel shallot and gently bash, splice dried chili to weed out seeds, lightly grill the dried fish over open flame until fragrant before de-skewer the fish. Bilimbi needs almost no work.

Into the boiling water, add shallot, chili, fish and tamarind juice. Flavour with salt for saltiness, fish sauce for aroma. Then, drop in bilimbi; until it softens is the fish also soft. Neither need for parsley nor green onion dressing, just ladle it in a bowl and go slurp the soup in avenge of the rain now.





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斯橐 84


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