茄狗砧 01 ∶‘窑 .. 2559 徽氛 28 ┖押氛 626

Miracle Thai Agriculture

Danai Huntrakul E-mail : [email protected]

Serpenthead Fish in Swaying Soup

For Tom Khlong you use dried or salted fish only; while fresh or dried for Kaeng Sohm which calls for salted shrimp paste, garlic and palm sugar, the whole lot. The main ingredient for Tom Sohm is shredded ginger. Kaeng Liang is heavy on vegetable but do stay clear from young corn, carrot and Climbing Wattle omelet which will defy the essence of the soup.

Our ancient recipe has passed trials through generations to acquire the taste into a menu set fit to each season for decades and centuries. Why do we have to compromise our food culture for cash or unsustainable fusion trend?

I told mom the other day that, at Wat Krachaeng Bang Sai in Ayuttaya, I found delicious folk dishes: Tom Khlong longtail-tuna and winter melon, creamy green curry of shredded fresh bamboo shoo and chicken and chili-fermented-fish dip of roasted catfish. Mom stopped me and asked for some simple soup; with fresh fish subdued with galangal and shallot; seasoned with salt and tamarind juice; no coconut milk or any curry paste; with stress on fresh fish and not too chili hot; to soothe her in this balmy weather of the missing rain.

So comply did her son. However, I found Kaeng Sai Bua (lotus stem soup) using the same recipe. To simply title this article Kaeng Pla Chon (serpenthead fish soup) would be too drab; so I call it ?Serpenthead Fish in Swaying Soup? - without breaching food terminology.

Serpenthead fish price has gone up to Bht180 per kilo. It used to be cheap, a staple for folks; as ample as catfish; with tasty meat - solid when fried, stir-fried or boiled unlike others.

Most ingredients are kitchen items, so at the market I bought a stick of galangal, spring onion, culantro and, for a treat, fresh black mushroom 200 gram at Bht250 per kilo; mom is allergic to straw mushroom while others are redundant.

At home I set a cauldron of water to boil with peeled 5-6 bulbs of shallot gently crushed, sliced galangal, a dash of salt and fish head. While waiting, I made tamarind juice, cut washed spring onion, culantro, and mushroom to spoon size; roasted dried bird chili.

In a wok, I fried chunk fish fillet until crisp and golden brown; sieved up to rest and drip.

When the soup boils again, sieve up fish head, add mushroom and season with tamarind juice, premium fish sauce letting the sourness ahead by a nose. If the soup is not fish-savoury enough, add a bit of palm sugar; then, down with spring onion, culantro, fried chili and the fried fish chunk. Season to taste and turn off the stove. Wash up, dress and take the cauldron of ?Serpenthead Fish in Swaying Soup? to mom?s house.

Of the dishes done through seasons, this recipe took the least time and labour, but second to none in savoury.


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斯橐 86

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